4 posts tagged “tips”
Getting a good fit on a bicycle is a big deal. Traditionally, we concern ourselves with all manner of dimensions: saddle height, saddle tilt, fore-aft position, stem length and rise, and handlebar width are just the tip of the iceberg, and if you want to size yourself up, Wrench Science offers a good starting point--just make sure you take all those significant figures with a grain of salt.
Crank length, however, seldom comes up in these discussions, and certainly applies to far broader swaths of riders than more obscure considerations like "Q Factor" or the angle of shoe-pedal contact. Kirby Palm has something to say on the matter, and it seems like a worthy enough final word.
This post is intended for home mechanics. If you don't know what a horizontal dropout is, this post will be of no interest to you. If you're interested in learning, I may prepare a layman's explanation of the ins and outs of simpler drivertrains in the future. For now, Sheldon Brown's article, which requires some very active reading, will suffice.
We are lucky that most of us don't have to bother with chain tension: in all but a few cases, geared (i.e. multi-speed) and even some single-speed bikes use a derailleur, which doubles as a chain tensioner. For anyone making his or her first foray into building or maintaining bikes without derailleurs, however, wrestling with horizontal dropouts can be a considerable ordeal.
If you've got a bolt-on wheel (rather than a quick-release), Will Meister at 63xc offers a simple explanation of how to get the job done. With this method, bolt-on wheels allow you to fine tune the chain tension; quick-release wheels, while making the job immensely easier and eliminating the need for tools, do not offer that kind of precision.
Once the chain is decently tight, you may spin the cranks to discover that there are sometimes considerable variations in chain tension at different points of the rotation; Sheldon Brown has something to say about that. I have never really been able to get this method to work, but with only three years of experience under my belt, I'm not in a position to question the efficacy of Sheldon Brown's recommendations.
Most mechanics will tell you that in order to safely convert your bike to a fixed gear, you must procure a rear wheel that can fit a reverse-threaded lockring so's your cog won't come spinning off when you push backwards on the pedals, but very frugal people and the Italians know better.
This handy-dandy technique, fully illustrated in four crystal-clear steps, shows you how to slap a fixed cog on a standard freewheel-compatible wheel; no special tools or chemicals required. My bike has been set up in this manner for over a year now without a hitch, carrying me through grades up to 20%.
So what to do, and who to trust? Human anatomy varies enormously from one individual to the next, which means that picking a new saddle is a crap shoot, and even the right one might not fix the problem if your setup isn't right. Before you drop your bar mitzvah money on some good-for-bubkes schlock of a saddle, consider the following:
1) If you ride with a backpack, don't. There are lots of alternatives: claim a locker at school or work, mount a basket or a rack on your bike, or even buy a baby trailer (not a good idea if you plan to take your bike on the bus). Any extra weight you carry on your person will be supported only by the handlebars, the pedals, and the saddle--guess which one takes the brunt of your cargo. Even five pounds can make a difference, and if you're hauling groceries or textbooks, I can guarantee your load will exceed that. Additionally, you will save yourself the embarrassment of looking like you moved your urethtra to your upper back and peed your shirt.
2) Adjust your saddle height. For your knees' sake, you should be able to extend your legs almost completely with your heel down. For your girlfriend's or boyfriend's sake, however, don't go overboard. Yes, your toes should just barely sweep the ground. As a rough guide, your heel should just barely touch (or just barely miss) the pedal at the 6 o'clock position. Also, make sure your saddle is level with the ground. Slightly nose-down is okay for some very specific applications, but transfers a lot of stress to the wrists; nose-up is never okay.
3) If you can bear it, raise your handlebars for a more upright position. The more you lean forward, the more your weight bears down on your softest parts. I know you like to ride aggressively, but that aerodynamic advantage will not get you to work on time or measurably intensify your workout.
If neither time nor these suggestions acclimate you to your saddle, it's time to invest in another. Don't buy gel pads: since they're not fixed to the saddle, they will slide side-to-side and chafe. Decide for yourself whether you want a cut-out in the center; I promise, I've gone horrendously numb on many such saddles before. To everyone riding anything but a cruiser or "comfort" bike: your saddle is not a couch; please do not test it with your thumb. The squishier it is, the more your butt will sink into it, allowing the foam or the gel right in the middle to apply pressure to your jumblies. Broken-in leather saddles are heaven to ride, but often leave black or brown stains on garments. Either way, your genital health is not something to skimp on. As always in the cycling market, you will get what you pay for.
